feels like home to me...
Recently, a friend of mine had mentioned that he had a lot on his mind and I had offered to be a set of ears if he wanted to talk it out. He replied, "but I don't even know where to start," to which I said, "well the beginning, of course, unless it makes more sense to start somewhere else.." and that is how I feel about my blogging: I had dreams of starting from the beginning, but to be honest I don't know where it all begins and I'm not so sure that it matters where I start..so here it goes:
The 5th of March: After finishing my Spanish lessons with Ana, my host mom and teacher (shit- that just reminded me that I have homework to do..ugh)- I went up to my room to catch up on emails and facebook stalking. Ah-bell (as Ana says it), the other gringo living in the house, popped his head in to say hi and asked if he could join me. After quickly making fun of the amount of things I brought, we changed topics to one of my favs: ice cream and desserts. Now A is quite the philosophical 23 year old, and in our 4 days of knowing each other we have shared some intense conversations, but honestly, few things are more intense than a passionate conversation about ice cream. He just gets me..and we both agree- there are few people who don't like ice cream or desserts that are interesting and likable. There, I said it. Anyways, somehow the subject got changed to walking directions to the Plaza de Armas (buzz kill, I know...) and A offered to show me tonight on his way to work. I had been wanting to take a walk and explore a bit, so I jumped on the offer.
We set off on our journey down the Avenida de la Cultura, talking desserts, crazy foods that the kid has consumed (pigs blood, antelope, 100 year old egg, a live bumblebee, etc.) and the foods he wants to try...thankfully we quickly reached the Plaza de Armas and we left the topic of eating testicles and A started giving me a mini tour of the area, hitting all of the staples: a delicious ice cream place (that I swear is on the Cusco version of Diagon Alley[what up Hogwarts and HP!]- like how we got there I have NO freakin idea!) the best vegetarian restaurant (his directions are quite funny sometimes, for instance: "you see that alley across the plaza? that's gringo alley. but do you see the one to the right a bit? where that white truck is? over that way somewhere and up a hill is the vegan place!) and a cool market places to explore.
A has been here since the beginning of February and has had a great amount of time to explore and learn, and has been very generous in sharing his wisdom: ie: Lock the main door, grandpa wanders. Lock your door, grandpa likes to collect things (Ana told me this too!). Don't put your hand around the whole handle in the shower, the electrical tape is there for a reason. Don't use the laundry place they showed you: they staple your clothes, etc. Such great advice that I'd rather know before learning the hard way! Sidenote: I had noticed that there were no toothbrushes in the bathroom, so I followed suit since day one, but just yesterday I realized my razor is not safe in the bathroom either. It had to be rescued from Grandpa's room today...
ANYWAYS, after leaving A, I decided to head back to the house..it was growing dark and I had about a 30 minute walk ahead of me. I was proud that I left the plaza without ice cream (okay..truth: I couldn't find my way back to Diagon Alley, otherwise things would have been different..) I did, though, somehow magically find my way through what I think are quite confusing streets of the Plaza de Armas area to the Avenida de la Cultura and started home. As it grew dark I laughed to myself- I promised no more gypsy cabs but never made a promise about going anywhere by myself. To be honest, I felt completely safe and though I was the only gringa walking, there were a lot of single females walking around and NOBODY said boo to me (which is totally not the case in Lima!) I honestly felt no more threatened walking alone in Cusco than walking in NYC. BUT, I promise not to make a habit of this.
To get home from the Av. de la Cultura, I make a left onto a small street and cross between a basketball court and a church to get to the small walkway to my house. Tonight, as I passed in front of the church, I was hypnotized by the beautiful music I heard and so I decided to sit down and listen for a bit. As I've experienced in Nicaragua and even in my own Armenian church, there is just something so peaceful and humbling about church music in another language. I was sitting there completely lost in thought when Ana's son, Jose, an adorable 24 year old who lives a few doors from Ana!, walked by and was like (in Spanish!) "Ali!! what's up? where you coming from? what are you up to?" we shared a brief conversation as he passed and I loved it. Not only did I have a friend to walk with tonight, I had a friend randomly pass by me and recognize me! I KNOW people in Cusco, and I LOVE it. It makes it feel at home..
(It reminded me of one of my many favorite memories from life in San Diego- it wasn't soon after I moved there that I was running errands in La Jolla and randomly ran into my coworker Jackie, who soon became a friend (and travel buddy!!) and I realized- I know people. This is home. And even to this day, years after moving from San Diego, it feels like home whenever I visit!!)
When I first sat down to listen to the music I had actually made the mental thought, "how long do I sit here for? Until I grow bored? Until the music stops? How do I know when I'm ready? What if I leave and miss something?" But after J passed, I got up and followed him home.

My sister had this made for me a few years back. Cusco will be no exception.
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